• Dermatology

Vitamin C for Dark Spots: 5-Step Brightening with VC-IP|Part 1

In 2023, the brightening skincare market in Japan reached 269.6 billion yen, up 5.9% year-on-year. *

With the post-COVID-19 increase in outings and face-to-face opportunities, consumers have become more conscious of caring for dark spots and dullness. Consequently, the market size for brightening skincare that addresses dark spots is on an upward trend.

* Source: TPC Marketing Research Co., Ltd.

Furthermore, "ingredient-focused purchasing"—where consumers select cosmetics based on their cosmetic ingredients—has become a major trend. Among brightening ingredients, Vitamin C and Vitamin C derivatives boast particularly high consumer recognition and are expected to see continued strong demand.

Mechanism of Dark Spot Formation

Dark spots (hyperpigmentation) form through the following steps (1 to 6):

1. Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS): Triggered by external stimuli such as UV radiation and dryness.

2. Release of Melanocyte Activation Factors: Epidermal cells under oxidative stress release these factors.

3. Melanocyte Activation & Tyrosinase Activation: Melanocytes are activated, leading to an increase and activation of tyrosinase.

4. Increased Melanin Production: Melanin synthesis within the melanocytes escalates.

5. Melanin Transport: Synthesized melanin is transported from melanocytes to epidermal cells (keratinocytes).

6. Melanin Accumulation: Melanin, which would normally be excreted through skin turnover, accumulates in the epidermal layer, resulting in visible dark spots

Additionally, it has been revealed that step 7—the age-related decline of melanin-regulating factors (such as DKK1) produced by dermal fibroblasts—is also involved in dark spot formation.

Reference: Click here for essential fatty acid derivatives that approach the melanin-regulating factor "DKK1."

Vitamin C Derivatives: Ingredients for Dark Spot Prevention

Vitamin C exhibits various physiological activities, including brightening and anti-agingeffects.

Its brightening efficacy is exceptionally well-known among general consumers, which has led to the development of various Vitamin C derivatives.