• Formula Design

Global Standards for Natural Formulations: Calculating Natural Origin Index and Selecting the Ideal Solubilizer

In global markets, particularly in Europe, being PEG-free, silicone-free, and microplastic-free has become a prerequisite for business. Demonstrating a Natural Origin Index (NOI) based on ISO 16128 is now essential.

Drawing on insights from the front lines of international sales, this article reviews the calculation rules for the Natural Origin Index and explores current market demands.

Global Trends in Natural and Clean Beauty

Driven by rising consumer health and environmental awareness, "Natural" and "Clean Beauty" have dominated the global cosmetic market.

Consequently, the demand for transparency regarding the Natural Origin Index is increasing worldwide, with more products highlighting their NOI to appeal to eco-conscious consumers.

Insights from International Sales: The Shift to "Natural-First"

According to our sales representatives covering Europe, being "natural" is no longer a selling point—it is the starting line for any business negotiation.

Key trends observed in the field include:

  • The "PEG-Free" Mandate: Formulations containing "PEG" in their INCI names are frequently rejected at the initial proposal stage.

  • Compliance Over Function: Many clients now prioritize naturality and regulatory compliance over raw material performance alone.

  • Strategic Selection: For international markets, we now prioritize PEG-free formulations as a default to meet these rigorous standards.

What is the Natural Origin Index (NOI)?

The Natural Origin Index quantifies the proportion of natural components within a product or ingredient.

Typically calculated based on the ISO 16128 international standard, it serves as an objective metric to evaluate a cosmetic's "naturalness."

How to Calculate the Natural Origin Index for Formulations:

  1. Proportional Accumulation of Natural Content Only the specific natural portion of each raw material is added to the total calculation of the formulation’s index.

  2. The 50% Threshold (Non-Natural Classification) If the non-natural content of an ingredient exceeds 0.50 (50%), the entire ingredient is classified as "non-natural."

  1. In this case, even its natural components cannot be counted toward the final Natural Origin Index of the formulation.

Strategies for High-NOI Formulation Design

To maximize the Natural Origin Index of a finished product, it is crucial to select base materials and surfactants with a high index.

Using ingredients with an NOI of 1.0 is the most effective way to boost the overall percentage.

Recommended Solution: NIKKOL NIKKOSOLVE® Series

A standout solution for high-performance natural formulations is the NIKKOL NIKKOSOLVE® series from Nikko Chemicals.

  • 100% Natural (NOI = 1.0): A polyglyceryl fatty acid ester-based solubilizer.

  • High Performance: Matches the efficacy of petroleum-based solubilizers. It achieves clear solubilization of high-concentration essential oils and fragrances even at low dosages.

  • Global Recognition: Received excellent feedback at in-cosmetics global 2025, making it ideal for international product development.

We offer a wide range of ingredients with a Natural Origin Index of 1.0. You can easily search our portfolio through the link here.

Conclusion

Success in the global market depends on providing transparent data based on ISO 16128 and meeting rigorous market demands, such as PEG-free standards.

To stay competitive, we recommend these three core strategies:

  • Strict Adherence to ISO 16128: Correctly understand and manage the "50% Rule" for accurate NOI calculations.

  • High Naturality Ingredients: Build your formulations using high-performance, 100% natural-origin materials like the NIKKOL NIKKOSOLVE® series.

  • Prioritize Market Compatibility: Aim for the perfect balance between superior functionality and natural compliance.

We offer a comprehensive portfolio of Natural Origin Index (NOI) 1.0 ingredients and provide total support—from formulation development to global regulatory compliance.